Wednesday, April 30, 2014

Dramatic Warm-Toned Smokey Eye Tutorial!!

I finally caved and decided to make a dramatic eye look tutorial!  I don't do crazy makeup like this often, but it's so much fun to do.  And I actually included some false eyelashes.. dun dun dun.  (If you don't wear them and don't have a lot of practice applying them, I swear they're not as daunting as you think!)

With my new Anastasia Lavish Palette and Kat Von D palette, I couldn't resist playing around with a really smokey eye.  This is a pretty "night time" look that I wouldn't necessarily rock for everyday wear.  It looks like it has a ton of steps, but I included THREE different "stopping points," if you will, in this look, so you can keep going to make it as dramatic as you want!




Tutorial after the jump!




Products Used:

 Sigma Beauty E35 Tapered Blending Brush ($14)

 Sigma Beauty E38 Diffused Crease Brush ($14)

Sephora Collection Pro Blending Brush #27 ($20)

Sephora Collection Classic Blending Eyeshadow Brush #71 ($16)

Sephora Collection Pro Precision Smudge Brush #29 ($18)

Sephora Collection Classic Precision Powder Shadow Brush #61 ($13)

Sigma Beauty E05 Eye Liner Brush ($12)

NYX Cosmetics Hi Definition Photo Concealer Want in "Light" ($5)

Real Techniques Miracle Complexion Sponge ($6)

Kat Von D "Saint" True Romance Eyeshadow Palette ($36)

Anastasia Beverly Hills "Lavish" Palette ($24 SOLD OUT)

Stila Stay All Day Waterproof Liquid Eye Liner Pen ($20)

Urban Decay Cannonball Ultra Waterproof Mascara ($20)

NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base ($25)

Forever21 Love&Beauty "Darling" Faux Lashes ($3)

Sorry the tube is so disgusting..
DUO Eyelash Adhesive in Black ($9)


How-To:

1.  Start off with a prepped and primed eyelid.


2.  Sweep a light orangey peach eyeshadow all over your eyelid with a big, fluffy brush -- I used the color "Orange Soda" by Anastasia.  (Here are Orange Soda dupes, courtesy of Temptalia! This is an amaaaazing blog, by the way.)


3.  On the outer half of your eyelid, add a coppery, shimmery shadow with the same brush.  The color "Rum Cake" by Anastasia is beautiful color, but here is a list of dupes!


4.   My favorite color!! Take a cinnamony-terra cotta-y matte color and sweep it into the outer-V of your eye.  This is Anastasia's Sienna, and it's TO DIE FOR.  Keep adding layers of this color until you achieve a pretty opaque result.  Then blend that V-shape out!  But don't blend too much, or you'll ruin the integrity of the V, which you want to keep in tact.


5.  Next, deepen the V-shape with a dark, matte brown.  I used Kat Von D's "Caravaggio" but this is a color that is pretty universal and easy to find.  Once the V is dark enough, blend that out (while still keeping the V-shape in tact, like above).


6.  This can be a tricky step if you're not careful!  With a WET, fine point brush, dip the brush into a shimmery, gold eyeshadow (I used Kat Von D's "Sunny").  You can wet your brush with either standard eyedrops (yes I'm serious!) or a specific setting product, like MAC's Fix+ or Too Faced Glitter Glue. Carefully coat the wet brush with a gold shadow and, with a gentle patting motion, apply this color to the middle portion of your lid -- be sure not to cover up any of the shadows you already applied in your V!  Then blend this out slightly using the same precise brush.


7.  Draw a pretty thick line of black eyeliner using a waterproof pencil -- because this is a smokey eye, you want the eyeliner to look smudged and blown out.  (Or, at least, that's how I like my smokey eyes to look.)  Go ahead and fill in your thick liner, and smudge it out using either a smudging brush or an eyeliner smudging tool.  You don't have to be very precise with this, because the liner is actually serving as a base for another shadow in this look.


8.  With a very dark brown, matte eyeshadow, smudge this color over your existing eyeliner.  This sets your liner in place, and creates a smokier effect.  Again, you don't have to be super exact with this, because blown out = good!


9.  Using a liquid eyeliner pen, draw a fine wing that extends about halfway to the tip of your eyebrow.  If you want to be risky, you can trace this wing with the same dark brown shadow that you smudged over your pencil liner.  If you don't want to risk ruining the crisp line, you can just use a dark brown eyeliner pen instead of a black one!


10.  Curl your lashes, and add a few coats of mascara.  I, of course, used my beloved UD Cannonball Mascara.  And here is your first stopping point!  This look is great as it is, if you want all the focus of the look to be on your top lid.  But if you want more drama, keep going!


11.  With the pencil eyeliner from before, go in and tightline your water lines on both the bottom and top lids.  I think the look of tightlining just creates a crisp appearance, especially in smokey eye looks when the rest of the shadows are so blown out and blended.  Because this look is pretty dramatic, go ahead and line the entire bottom lid into the inner corner, and extend the top eyeliner down to the tear duct.


12.  Using the cinnamony matte shadow from earlier ("Sienna" for me), blend out the bottom eyeliner and extend it a little down your bottom lid.  The key to bottom lid eyeliner and eyeshadow is BLENDING.  A lot of times, using a bunch of product on your lower lid can look heavy, messy, and just throw off the whole look.  So be sure to blend, blend, blend this color out!


13.  Then, taking the light orangey peach shadow ("Orange Soda" for me), smudge this color into just the inner corner of your lower lid. Again, blend blend blend!  Using these warmer-toned eyeshadows on your bottom lid can actually end up looking like a) a disease, or b) like you got punched in the eye a few days ago.  Avoid this by really blending and blowing out this color!


14.  Add some mascara on your bottom lashes!  And BOOM, another stopping point!  But keep going for more drama!


15.  Okay.  Warning: this is the false eyelashes step.  But it isn't that scary!  Here is how I apply them.  Make sure the strip of falsies actually fits your eye.  I have smaller eyes, so I always have to cut a few centimeters off of the length.  But be sure you're cutting off of the correct side!  Most falsies have a distinct inner and outer side (the inner side usually has shorter and wispier lashes than the outer).  Cut from the OUTER side!  Then, apply a THIN line of lash glue to the strip -- I used a black lash glue because I'm applying the lashes over a dark eyeliner.  Let the glue dry for 10 seconds before you try to apply them to your lashline.  Using a pair of tweezers, lay the MIDDLE of the lashes down in the center of your eye, right on top of your own lashline.  Then, using the tweezers, gently press down the outer corner to the outer portion of our lashes, and then the inner to the inner portion.  If you have to readjust them, do it quickly before the glue sets in place.  If you really mess up, no big deal!  Just GENTLY peel the lashes off and try again!

And again, this is yet another stopping point!  At this step, this smokey eye is pretty gorgeous as-is.  But there is one more thing you can do to make it even more dramatic..


16.  With a small concealer brush (whoops.. I forgot to include this in my products section.. but use any small, flat concealer brush!) and a light concealer, draw a very crisp line that starts right at the outer corner of your eye, and extends past the tip of your eyebrow.  Be very careful with this step, because you don't want to draw over your entire eyeliner wing -- you just want to shape it!


17.  I used a beauty blender-esque sponge here, but just make sure to really blend and blot that concealer out!  The idea is to create a super sharp edge, so keep that in mind while you're blending.


18.  Ta-daaaa!! You have a goorgeous, coppery, dramatic smokey eye!


And here are pics of this look in natural sunlight:




I really, really like this look.  I loved playing around with the Lavish and Saint palettes -- they're extremely versatile and can create almost any type of look.  I know I've done quite a few day-time wearable looks for my past tutorials, so I wanted to change it up and do something much more smokey and blown out.  


I hope this was helpful and easy to follow!  I'll definitely create more nighttime makeup look tutorials in the future :]

xojaybee

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