Sunday, November 23, 2014

Winter Berry-Inspired Smokey Makeup Tutorial!

Sometimes I like to switch things up and create different makeup looks to match whatever mood I'm in.  And this particular day I was feeling very wintery and holiday-esque (which is quite rare for me, let me tell you).  I decided to whip up a look that incorporated a fresh-from-the-cold berry-colored stained lip and some pretty rosy cheeks.  This is what I came up with!

I liked the look of a super-smokey yet soft eye, so I nixed any harsh lines or eyeliner.  And stay tuned for a fun and easy trick to creating the perfect stained lip and cheek!



I apologize for the absolutely terrible quality of the photos in this tutorial.  I did it at night without any natural sunlight and my bedroom lighting was just NOT working in my favor that night.  

Let's get started! (Tutorial after the jump!)



1.  I started off with a foundation-ed face, primed lids, and brows done.  I chose to do a bold yet natural looking brow for this look.  Since the eyes and lips are so soft, a super strong and rigid brow would have clashed.  [TIP: For an easy way to pull off a softer looking brow, don't fill in the front end of the brow towards the nose!]


2.  With a large fluffy brush, cover the entire lid from lashline to browbone with a matte skin-toned shadow.  I used MakeUp ForEver Artist Shadow in "Milk Tea."


3.  Pick up a darker taupe shadow on a crease brush and sweep it in your entire crease, from outer to inner corner.  I used MakeUp Forever Artist Shadow in "Latte."  Be sure to blend, blend, blend this color out so there are no harsh edges left!  Focus the attention on the outer-c of the eye.


4.  On a fluffy shadow brush, blend a caramel-colored shadow on the outer 1/3rd of the lid.  I used, aptly named enough, Anastasia Beverly Hills Eye Shadow in "Caramel" here.  


5.  With a denser crease brush, go in and define the outer-c of your lid with a darker cinnamon shade.  I used Anastasia Beverly Hills Eye Shadow in "Morocco" for this.  A step like this isn't going to seem like it's really doing anything for the look, but trust me, it makes a difference!  It gives the shadow much more dimension than you realize, and helps the blending process for a soft and sultry look.


6.  Using that same dense crease brush, darken up that outer-c shape even more with a deep berry shade.  I loved Anastasia Beverly Hills Eye Shadow in "Sangria" for this step.  (Check out THIS post for a swatch of the color!!)  This shadow has a gorgeous shimmery look to it that I love for a smokey berry eye.  Really pack on this color and make it super-opaque, but don't forget to blend it out and diffuse the edges to avoid any distinguishable lines.


7.  I don't know why I didn't photograph the application for this step, but go into that outer-c even more with a black shadow.  Use a LIGHT hand with this step -- it's not meant to make the outer corner black, it's just meant to darken the crease and outer-c for more depth!  I used Anastasia Beverly Hills Eye Shadow in "Black Diamond," which is a black shadow with gold shimmer, to give it a little more playfulness.  (Check out a swatch of the shadow here!)  Only barely touch the tip of a fine, dense shadow brush into the pan of shadow, and tap off any excess before application.



 8.  Starting in the very inner corner, blend a shimmery warm-toned gold shadow over the lid and blend it into the caramel color you laid down on the outer third.  I actually used a combination of Anastasia Beverly Hills Eye Shadows in "Glisten" and "Topaz" to create the perfect shade.  (Check this post for the swatches!)  Where the darker and lighter shades meet in the middle can be a sort of tricky spot to master.  If it's necessary for a more seamlessly blended look, go back in with just a touch of the caramel color and blend it in with the lighter shade to make a perfect gradient.


9.  With a smudgeable dark brown eyeliner (gel or pencil works best here), draw a messy line along your lash line.  It doesn't need to be perfect because it'll be smudged out! I love using NYX Jumbo Eye Pencils for this type of step in any eye look.. it's perfect.  I used the shade "French Fries."  For a smokier look, flick the end of the liner upwards toward the tip of the eyebrow.


10.  Using a short smudger brush, smudge and blend this liner like no other! DON'T wait too long to smudge after laying down the color -- if you wait too long (especially with a creme or gel liner), the product actually sets and dries to a smudge-proof finish.  So make sure to smudge while it's still wet!


11.  To get rid of any harsh qualities, go over the eyeliner you just smudged with the same golden toned shadow you used on the inner part of your eyelid.


12.   Prep your top lashes for falsies with some mascara -- I like using Yves Saint Laurent "Baby Doll" mascara when I'm blending my natural lashes with falsies because of it's wet and somewhat sticky formula.  Then put on your favorite false lashes to create some volume and drama.  I, of course, am wearing my all-time favorite House of Lashes "Pixie Lux" lashes.


13.  This step is sort of optional, but I like to intensify the look of my lash line by tight-lining my upper water line with a black waterproof black eyeliner pencil.  My favorite liner to use is Stila Stay All Day Smudge Stick Waterproof Eyeliner in "Stingray" -- it seriously has the best staying power, and never transfers onto my contacts when I'm using it on my waterlines.  A lot of "waterproof" pencil eyeliners actually transfer onto my contacts when I blink and wear the liner throughout the day, and leave a filmy residue over the lens so I can't see.  Stila Stay All Day never does this to me!


14.  Using the same brown smudging eyeliner, line the bottom lash line from inner to outer corner.  Again, it doesn't have to be neat because it'll be smudged out.


15.  With the berry colored shadow from earlier, use a pencil brush to blend and smudge the outer half of the bottom lash line, making sure to really blend out that brown liner.  Connect the outer edge from the bottom lash line up with the outer-c on the top lid and blend them together.


16.  Then using the same gold shadow from earlier, smudge and blend out the inner third of the bottom lash line.  Don't be scared to really extend the bottom lid shadow down quite a bit from the lashline.  I really love how soft and blended this look can be when you really smudge out that bottom lash line!


17.   Using any satin or matte bone/cream colored shadow, highlight underneath your eyebrow, concentrating the color underneath the arch of the brow.  I just grabbed a satin finish cream shadow from Anastasia to do this.


18.  Finish off the look with a few coats of mascara on the bottom lashes, and the eye is all done!


19.   Now onto the fun part!  Find your favorite berry or wine colored matte lipstick.  I used NARS Pure Matte Lipstick in "Valparaiso," a deep burgundy/berry color.


Gently tap your middle or ring finger onto the lipstick and transfer the color to your finger.  Make sure there is only a light coating of the product on your finger.


Then gently tap your finger onto the center portion of your lips.   Sort of smack your lips together a few times in between each pat to spread the color and "stain" your lips with the product.  Using this method of applying lipstick really gives you a "I just walked a mile outside during a lovely snow fall and am stopping in for some hot chocolate next to a warm fire" vibe.  It gives you a hint of color from your favorite lip stick without having to completely cover your lips in it.


20.  Then, using the left over product on your finger, tap and swirl and blend in the color onto the apples of your cheeks!  Blend it on the circular part of the cheek and lightly sweep it back towards the hairline.  This instantly gives you a fresh and flushed look very akin to the snow fall and hot chocolate vibe that the lip stain does.


And that's it!  No contouring, no bronzing.  The simple rosy cheek and lip combination pairs perfectly with the smokey and hazy eye look.  It's the perfect makeup for the cold and snowy wintertime.  Plus, if you're actually going to be outside at all while wearing this look, the natural rosiness from your skin will look even better combined with this "staining" trick!




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